Hair Conditioning Composition Having Higher Yield Point and Higher Conversion Rate of Fatty Compound to Gel Matrix

ABSTRACT

Disclosed is a hair conditioning composition comprising: (a) a cationic surfactant; (b) a high melting point fatty compound; and (c) an aqueous carrier; wherein the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fatty compound, and the aqueous carrier form a gel matrix; wherein the composition has from about 90% to about 100% of a conversion rate of the high melting point fatty compound to the gel matrix; and wherein the composition has a yield point of about 33Pa or more. Also disclosed is a method of manufacturing of hair conditioning composition. The compositions of the present invention, and the compositions made by the method of the present invention, provide improved conditioning benefits, especially, improved wet conditioning benefits after rinsing and improved dry conditioning, while maintaining wet conditioning benefit before rinsing.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application is a divisional application of U.S. application Ser.No. 12/491,478 filed Jun. 25, 2009 which claims the benefit of U.S.Provisional Application No. 61/133002, filed Jun. 25, 2008.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a hair conditioning compositioncomprising: (a) a cationic surfactant; (b) a high melting point fattycompound; and (c) an aqueous carrier; wherein the cationic surfactant,the high melting point fatty compound, and the aqueous carrier form agel matrix; wherein the composition has from about 90% to about 100% ofa conversion rate of the high melting point fatty compound to the gelmatrix; and wherein the composition has a yield point of about 33 Pa ormore. The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing ofhair conditioning composition. The compositions of the presentinvention, and the compositions made by the method of the presentinvention, provide improved conditioning benefits, especially, improvedwet conditioning benefits after rinsing and improved dry conditioning,while maintaining wet conditioning benefit before rinsing.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A variety of approaches have been developed to condition the hair. Acommon method of providing conditioning benefit is through the use ofconditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, highmelting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, siliconecompounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents areknown to provide various conditioning benefits. For example, somecationic surfactants, when used together with some high melting pointfatty compounds and aqueous carrier, are believed to provide a gelmatrix which is suitable for providing a variety of conditioningbenefits such as slippery feel during the application to wet hair andsoftness and moisturized feel on dry hair.

For example, WO 2006/044209 discloses a hair conditioning compositioncomprising by weight: (a) from about 0.1% to about 10% of a cationicsurfactant; (b) from about 2.5% to about 15% by weight of thecomposition of a high melting point fatty compound; and (c) and anaqueous carrier; wherein the cationic surfactant, the high melting pointfatty compound, and the aqueous carrier form a lamellar gel matrix;wherein the d-spacing of the lamellar layers is in the range of 33 nm orless; and wherein the composition has a yield stress of about 30 Pa ormore at 26.7° C. This hair conditioning compositions are said to provideimproved conditioning benefits, especially improved slippery feel duringthe application to wet hair. WO 2006/044209 also describes that;preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises, byweight of the hair care composition, from about 60% to about 99% of agel matrix including lamellar gel matrix. WO 2006/044209 also describesthat; in highly preferred composition, the DSC profile shows a singlepeak having a peak top temperature of about 67° C. to about 73° C., atabout 8 mJ/mg, and no peaks larger than 2 mJ/mg from 40° C. to about 65°C. as the peaks showing at a temperature of from 40° C. to 55° C. meanthe existence of high melting fatty compounds and/or cationicsurfactants which are not incorporated into the gel matrix.

However, there remains a need for hair conditioning compositions whichprovide improved conditioning benefits, especially, improved wetconditioning benefits after rinsing and improved dry conditioning, whilemaintaining wet conditioning benefit before rinsing. Such wetconditioning benefits after rinsing include, for example, reducedfriction of wet hair after rinsing and/or easiness to comb wet hairafter rinsing.

Additionally, there may exist a need for hair conditioning compositionswhich provide an improved product appearance, i.e., richer, thicker,and/or more concentrated product appearance, and which consumer may feelhigher conditioning benefits from its appearance.

Based on the foregoing, there remains a need for conditioningcompositions which provide improved conditioning benefits, especially,improved wet conditioning benefits after rinsing and improved dryconditioning, while maintaining wet conditioning benefit before rinsing.Additionally, there may exist a need for conditioning compositions whichprovide an improved product appearance.

None of the existing art provides all of the advantages and benefits ofthe present invention.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a hair conditioning compositioncomprising:

-   (a) a cationic surfactant;-   (b) a high melting point fatty compound; and-   (c) an aqueous carrier;-   wherein the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fatty    compound, and the aqueous carrier form a gel matrix; wherein the    composition has from about 90% to about 100% of a conversion rate of    the high melting point fatty compound to the gel matrix; and wherein    the composition has a yield point of about 33 Pa or more.

The present invention is also directed to a method of manufacturing ahair conditioning composition,

-   wherein the composition comprises a cationic surfactant, a high    melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier;-   wherein a total amount of the cationic surfactant and the high    melting point fatty compound is from about 7.0% to about 15% by    weight of the composition;-   wherein the method comprises the steps:-   (1) preparing a premix comprising the cationic surfactants and the    high melting point fatty compounds, wherein the temperature of the    premix is higher than a melting point of the high melting point    fatty compounds; and-   (2) preparing an aqueous carrier, wherein the temperature of the    aqueous carrier is below the melting point of the high melting point    fatty compounds; and-   (3) mixing the premix with the aqueous carrier and forming gel    matrix.

The compositions of the present invention, and the compositions made bythe method of the present invention, provide improved conditioningbenefits, especially, improved wet conditioning benefits after rinsingand improved dry conditioning, while maintaining wet conditioningbenefit before rinsing.

These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the presentinvention will become better understood from a reading of the followingdescription, and appended claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing outand distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the inventionwill be better understood from the following description of theaccompanying figure in which:

FIG. 1 illustrates an embodiment of d-spacing measurement of thelamellar gel matrix comprising lamella bilayers 1 and water 2.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing outand distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the presentinvention will be better understood from the following description.

Herein, “comprising” means that other steps and other ingredients whichdo not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses theterms “consisting of and “consisting essentially of”.

All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of thecompositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. Allsuch weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on theactive level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products thatmay be included in commercially available materials.

Herein, “mixtures” is meant to include a simple combination of materialsand any compounds that may result from their combination.

Composition

The hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprising:

-   (a) a cationic surfactant;-   (b) a high melting point fatty compound; and-   (c) an aqueous carrier;-   wherein the cationic surfactant, the high melting point fatty    compound, and the aqueous carrier form a gel matrix; wherein the    composition has from about 90% to about 100% of a conversion rate of    the high melting point fatty compound to the gel matrix; and wherein    the composition has a yield point of about 33 Pa or more.

It has been found that by the inventors of the present invention that;by having the above specific conversion rate and the above specificyield point, the hair conditioning compositions deliver improvedconditioning benefits, especially improved wet conditioning benefitsafter rinsing and improved dry conditioning, while maintaining wetconditioning benefit before rinsing, compared to compositions having asmaller conversion rate and/or smaller yield point.

Additionally, it has been also found that by the inventors of thepresent invention that; by having the above specific conversion rate andthe specific yield point, the conditioning composition of the presentinvention may provide an improved product appearance, i.e., richer,thicker, and/or more concentrated product appearance.

For forming the composition of the present invention, it is preferred toprepare the composition by the method described below under the title“METHOD OF MANUFACTURING”. For forming the composition of the presentinvention, it is also preferred that the total amount of the cationicsurfactant and the high melting point fatty compound is from about 7.0%,as described below under the title “METHOD OF MANUFACTURING”.

Gel Matrix

The composition of the present invention comprises a gel matrixincluding lamella gel matrix. The gel matrix comprises the cationicsurfactant, the high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueouscarrier. The gel matrix is suitable for providing various conditioningbenefits, such as slippery feel during the application to wet hair andsoftness and moisturized feel on dry hair.

In view of providing improved wet conditioning benefits, the cationicsurfactant and the high melting point fatty compound are contained at alevel such that the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the highmelting point fatty compound is in the range of, preferably from about1:1 to about 1:10, more preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:4, stillmore preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:4.

Preferably, in view of stability of the gel matrix, the composition ofthe present invention is substantially free of anionic surfactants andanionic polymers. In the present invention, “the composition beingsubstantially free of anionic surfactants and anionic polymers” meansthat: the composition is free of anionic surfactants and anionicpolymers; or, if the composition contains anionic surfactants andanionic polymers, the level of such anionic surfactants and anionicpolymers is very low. In the present invention, the total level of suchanionic surfactants and anionic polymers, if included, 1% or less,preferably 0.5% or less, more preferably 0.1% or less by weight of thecomposition. Most preferably, the total level of such anionicsurfactants and anionic polymers is 0% by weight of the composition.

Conversion Rate of High Melting Point Fatty Compound to Gel Matrix

The composition of the present invention has a conversion rate of thehigh melting point fatty compound to gel matrix, such rate being in therange of from about 90% to about 100%, preferably from about 95% toabout 100%, more preferably above 99% (excluding 99%) to about 100%, inview of providing wet conditioning benefits before rinsing such asspreadability, and also providing wet conditioning benefits afterrinsing_and improved dry conditioning benefits.

Such conversion rate is measured by the following equation:

Conversion rate (%)=[Delta H (J/g) of an endothermic peak having a peaktop temperature of from about 67° C. to about 75° C./A total delta H(J/g) of all endothermic peaks]×100

Such delta H is detected by differential scanning calorimetry(hereinafter referred to as “DSC”) measurement of the composition.Thermal events obtained by DSC measurement describe chemical andphysical changes of the scanned sample that involve an enthalpy changeor energy gradient when the temperature of the sample is fluctuated. Assuch, the phase behavior and interaction among components of hairconditioning compositions of the present invention may be understood bytheir DSC curves. DSC measurement of compositions of the presentinvention is conducted by Seiko DSC 6000 instrument available from SeikoInstruments Inc. In a typical measurement procedure, a sample isprepared by sealing an appropriate amount of the composition into acontainer made for DSC measurement and sealed. The weight of the sampleis recorded. A blank sample i.e.; an unsealed sample of the samecontainer is also prepared. The sample and blank sample are placedinside the instrument, and run under a measurement condition of fromabout −50° C. to about 130° C. at a heating rate of from about 1°C./minute to about 10° C./minute. The area of the peaks as identifiedare calculated and divided by the weight of the sample to obtain theenthalpy change in mJ/mg. The position of the peaks is identified by thepeak top position.

In the compositions of the present invention, the DSC curve shows aendothermic peak of, preferably larger than about 3 mJ/mg, morepreferably from about 4 mJ/mg, still more preferably from about 5 mJ,and preferably to about 10 mJ/mg, and such peak having a peak toptemperature of from about 67° C. to about 75° C. which indicates theexistence of a gel matrix.

The DSC curve of the compositions of the present invention shows,preferably no peaks larger than 2.5 mJ/mg, more preferably no peakslarger than 2 mJ/mg, still more preferably no peaks larger than 1 mJ/mg,at a temperature of from 40° C. to 55° C., preferably from 40° C. toabout 65° C., as the peaks having peak top temperatures at suchtemperature range mean the existence of high melting fatty compoundsand/or cationic surfactants which are not incorporated into the gelmatrix. It is believed that a composition formed predominantly with sucha gel matrix shows a relatively stable phase behavior during thetemperature range of from about 40° C. to about 55° C., preferably from40° C. to about 65° C.

Yield Point

The composition of the present invention has a yield point of about 33Pa or more preferably about 35 Pa or more, more preferably 40 Pa ormore, in view of providing improved wet conditioning benefits afterrinsing, and improved dry conditioning. The above yield point may bealso preferred in view of providing richer, thicker, and/or moreconcentrated product appearance. Preferably, the yield point is up toabout 80 Pa, more preferably up to about 75 Pa, still more preferably upto about 70 Pa, in view of spreadability and product appearance.

The yield point of the present invention is measured by dynamicoscillation stress sweep at 1 Hz frequency and 25° C., by means of arheometer available from TA Instruments with a mode name of AR2000 using40 mm diameter parallel type geometry having gap of 1000 nm.

Preferably, in view of spreadability, the composition of the presentinvention is substantially free of thickening polymers. In the presentinvention, “the composition being substantially free of thickeningpolymers” means that: the composition is free of thickening polymers;or, if the composition contains a thickening polymer, the level of suchthickening polymer is very low. In the present invention, the level ofsuch thickening polymers, if included, 1% or less, preferably 0.5% orless, more preferably 0.1% or less, still more preferably 0.06% byweight of the composition. Such thickening polymers include, forexample, guar polymers including nonionic and cationic guar polymers,cellulose polymers including nonionic, cationic, and/or hydrophobicallymodified cellulose polymers such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, othersynthetic polymers including nonionic and cationic synthetic polymerssuch as polyquaternium-37.

D-Spacing

It has been surprisingly found by the inventors of the present inventionthat; compositions characterized by the combination of the abovespecific conversion rate and specific yield point provide improved wetperformance, especially wet conditioning after rinsing, even if suchcompositions having a larger d-spacing than those of the compositions ofWO 2006/044209. Such larger d-spacing herein means a d-spacing of above33 nm (excluding 33 nm). D-spacing in the present invention means adistance between two lamellar bilayers plus the width of one lamellarbilayer, in lamellar gel matrix, as shown in FIG. 1. Thus, d-spacing isdefined according to the following equation:

D-spacing=d _(water) +d _(bilayer)

D-spacing can be measured by using a High Flux Small Angle X-rayScattering Instrument available from PANalytical with a tradenameSAXSess, under the typical conditions of Small Angle X-Ray Scattering(SAXS) measurements in a q-range (q=4π/λsin(θ) wherein λ is thewavelength and θ is half the scattering angel) of 0.06<q/nm⁻¹<27 whichcorresponds to 0.085<2θ/degree<40. All data are transmission-calibratedby monitoring the attenuated primary beam intensity and normalizing itinto unity, so that relative intensity for different samples can beobtained. The transmission-calibration allows us to make an accuratesubtraction of water contribution from the net sample scattering.D-spacing is calculated according to the following equation (which isknown as Bragg's equation):

nλ=2d sin(θ), wherein n is the number of lamellar bi-layers

Cationic Surfactant

The compositions of the present invention comprise a cationicsurfactant. The cationic surfactant can be included in the compositionat a level from about 1%, preferably from about 1.5%, more preferablyfrom about 1.8%, still more preferably from about 2.0%, and to about 8%,preferably to about 5%, more preferably to about 4% by weight of thecomposition, in view of providing the benefits of the present invention.

It is preferred in the present invention that, in view of improved wetconditioning benefits, the composition is substantially free of othercationic surfactants than those preferred in the present invention. Such“other cationic surfactant” includes, for example, tertiary amines,tertiary amine salts, and di-long alkyl cationic surfactants having twolong alkyl chains, for example those having from about 12 to about 40carbon atoms, such as dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride. In the present invention, “the compositionbeing substantially free of other cationic surfactants” means that: thecomposition is free of other cationic surfactants; or, if thecomposition contains other cationic surfactants, the level of such othercationic surfactants is very low. In the present invention, the level ofsuch other cationic surfactants, if included, 1% or less, preferably0.5% or less, more preferably 0.1% or less by weight of the composition.Most preferably, the level of such other cationic surfactants is 0% byweight of the composition.

Mono-Long Alkyl Quaternized Ammonium Salt Cationic Surfactant

One of the preferred cationic surfactants of the present invention is asalt of a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium and an anion, wherein theanion is selected from the group consisting of halides such as chlorideand bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate and ethosulfate,and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the anion is selected from thegroup consisting of halides such as chloride and mixtures thereof.

The mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are thosehaving the formula (I):

wherein one of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ is selected from an aliphatic groupof from 12 to 40 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene,alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 40carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are independentlyselected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 8 carbon atoms or anaromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl oralkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X⁻ is asalt-forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides such aschloride and bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate andethosulfate, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic groups can contain, inaddition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groupssuch as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those ofabout 16 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.Preferably, one of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ is selected from an alkyl groupof from 16 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18 to 26 carbonatoms, still more preferably from 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder ofR⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are independently selected from CH₃, C₂H₅, C₂H₄OH,CH₂C₆H₅, and mixtures thereof. It is believed that such mono-long alkylquaternized ammonium salts can provide improved slippery and slick feelon wet hair, compared to multi-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts. Itis also believed that mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts canprovide improved hydrophobicity and smooth feel on dry hair, compared toamine or amine salt cationic surfactants.

Among them, more preferred cationic surfactants are those having alonger alkyl group, i.e., C18-22 alkyl group. Such cationic surfactantsinclude, for example, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, methylsulfate or ethyl sulfate, and stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride,methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. Further preferred are behenyl trimethylammonium chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate, and still furtherpreferred is behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride. It is believed that;cationic surfactants having a longer alkyl group provide improveddeposition on the hair, thus can provide improved conditioning benefitssuch as improved softness on dry hair, compared to cationic surfactanthaving a shorter alkyl group. It is also believed that such cationicsurfactants can provide reduced irritation, compared to cationicsurfactants having a shorter alkyl group.

High Melting Point Fatty Compound

The high melting point fatty compound can be included in the compositionat a level of from about 2%, preferably from about 4%, more preferablyfrom about 5%, still more preferably from about 5.5%, and to about 15%,preferably to about 10% by weight of the composition, in view ofproviding the benefits of the present invention.

The high melting point fatty compound useful herein have a melting pointof 25° C. or higher, preferably 40° C. or higher, more preferably 45° C.or higher, still more preferably 50° C. or higher, in view of stabilityof the gel matrix. Preferably, such melting point is up to about 90° C.,more preferably up to about 80° C., still more preferably up to about70° C., even more preferably up to about 65° C., in view of easiermanufacturing and easier emulsification. In the present invention, thehigh melting point fatty compound can be used as a single compound or asa blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty compounds.When used as such blend or mixture, the above melting point means themelting point of the blend or mixture.

The high melting point fatty compound useful herein is selected from thegroup consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcoholderivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. It isunderstood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this sectionof the specification can in some instances fall into more than oneclassification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also beclassified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification isnot intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is doneso for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it isunderstood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position ofdouble bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compoundshaving certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of lessthan the above preferred in the present invention. Such compounds of lowmelting point are not intended to be included in this section.Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found inInternational Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, andCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.

Among a variety of high melting point fatty compounds, fatty alcoholsare preferably used in the composition of the present invention. Thefatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. Thesefatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chainalcohols.

Preferred fatty alcohols include, for example, cetyl alcohol (having amelting point of about 56° C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting pointof about 58-59° C.), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about71° C.), and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have theabove melting point. However, they often have lower melting points whensupplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fattyalcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkylchain is cetyl, stearyl or behenyl group. In the present invention, morepreferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixturesthereof.

Commercially available high melting point fatty compounds useful hereininclude: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol havingtradenames KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan),and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcoholhaving tradename 1-DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan).

Aqueous Carrier

The conditioning composition of the present invention comprises anaqueous carrier. The level and species of the carrier are selectedaccording to the compatibility with other components, and other desiredcharacteristic of the product.

The carrier useful in the present invention includes water and watersolutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols. The loweralkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol. The polyhydricalcohols useful herein include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol,glycerin, and propane diol.

Preferably, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized wateris preferably used. Water from natural sources including mineral cationscan also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of theproduct. Generally, the compositions of the present invention comprisefrom about 20% to about 99%, preferably from about 30% to about 95%, andmore preferably from about 80% to about 90% water.

Silicone Compound

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention preferably containa silicone compound. It is believed that the silicone compound canprovide smoothness and softness on dry hair. The silicone compoundsherein can be used at levels by weight of the composition of preferablyfrom about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about10%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 8%.

Preferably, the silicone compounds have an average particle size of fromabout lmicrons to about 50 microns, in the composition.

The silicone compounds useful herein, as a single compound, as a blendor mixture of at least two silicone compounds, or as a blend or mixtureof at least one silicone compound and at least one solvent, have aviscosity of preferably from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mPa·s at 25°C.

The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometeras set forth in Dow Coming Corporate Test Method CTM0004, Jul. 20, 1970.Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, aminosubstituted silicones, quaternized silicones, and mixtures thereof.Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having conditioning properties canalso be used.

Preferred polyalkyl siloxanes include, for example,polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane.Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especiallypreferred. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from theGeneral Electric Company in their Viscasil® and TSF 451 series, and fromDow Coming in their Dow Corning SH200 series.

The above polyalkylsiloxanes are available, for example, as a mixturewith silicone compounds having a lower viscosity. Such mixtures have aviscosity of preferably from about 1,000 mPa·s to about 100,000 mPa·s,more preferably from about 5,000 mPa·s to about 50,000 mPa·s. Suchmixtures preferably comprise: (i) a first silicone having a viscosity offrom about 100,000 mPa·s to about 30,000,000 mPa·s at 25° C., preferablyfrom about 100,000 mPa·s to about 20,000,000 mPa·s; and (ii) a secondsilicone having a viscosity of from about 5 mPa·s to about 10,000 mPa·sat 25° C., preferably from about 5 mPa·s to about 5,000 mPa·s. Suchmixtures useful herein include, for example, a blend of dimethiconehaving a viscosity of 18,000,000 mPa·s and dimethicone having aviscosity of 200 mPa·s available from GE Toshiba, and a blend ofdimethicone having a viscosity of 18,000,000 mPa·s andcyclopentasiloxane available from GE Toshiba.

The silicone compounds useful herein also include a silicone gum. Theterm “silicone gum”, as used herein, means a polyorganosiloxane materialhaving a viscosity at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 1,000,000centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described hereincan also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds.This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials.The “silicone gums” will typically have a mass molecular weight inexcess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane,poly(dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer,poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymerand mixtures thereof. The silicone gums are available, for example, as amixture with silicone compounds having a lower viscosity. Such mixturesuseful herein include, for example, Gum/Cyclomethicone blend availablefrom Shin-Etsu.

Silicone compounds useful herein also include amino substitutedmaterials. Preferred aminosilicones include, for example, those whichconform to the general formula (I):

(R₁)_(a)G3-a-Si—(—OSiG₂)_(n)-(-OSiG_(b)(R₁)_(2-b))_(m)—O—SiG_(3-a)(R₁)_(a)

wherein G is hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxy, or C₁-C₈ alkyl, preferablymethyl; a is 0 or an integer having a value from 1 to 3, preferably 1; bis 0, 1 or 2, preferably 1; n is a number from 0 to 1,999; m is aninteger from 0 to 1,999; the sum of n and m is a number from 1 to 2,000;a and m are not both 0; R₁ is a monovalent radical conforming to thegeneral formula CqH_(2q)L, wherein q is an integer having a value from 2to 8 and L is selected from the following groups: —N(R₂)CH₂—CH₂—N(R₂)₂;—N(R₂)₂; —N(R₂)₃A ; —N(R₂)CH₂—CH₂—NR₂H₂A⁻; wherein R₂ is hydrogen,phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkylradical from about C₁ to about C₂₀; A⁻ is a halide ion.

Highly preferred amino silicones are those corresponding to formula (I)wherein m=0, a=1, q=3, G=methyl, n is preferably from about 1500 toabout 1700, more preferably about 1600; and L is —N(CH3)2 or —NH2, morepreferably —NH2. Another highly preferred amino silicones are thosecorresponding to formula (I) wherein m=0, a=1, q=3, G=methyl, n ispreferably from about 400 to about 600, more preferably about 500; and Lis —N(CH3)2 or —NH₂, more preferably —NH₂. Such highly preferred aminosilicones can be called as terminal aminosilicones, as one or both endsof the silicone chain are terminated by nitrogen containing group.

The above aminosilicones, when incorporated into the composition, can bemixed with solvent having a lower viscosity. Such solvents include, forexample, polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile oils. Such oilsinclude, for example, silicone oils, hydrocarbons, and esters. Amongsuch a variety of solvents, preferred are those selected from the groupconsisting of non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, volatile cyclicsilicones, non-volatile linear silicones, and mixtures thereof. Thenon-volatile linear silicones useful herein are those having a viscosityof from about 1 to about 20,000 centistokes, preferably from about 20 toabout 10,000 centistokes at 25° C. Among the preferred solvents, highlypreferred are non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, especially non-polar,volatile isoparaffins, in view of reducing the viscosity of theaminosilicones and providing improved hair conditioning benefits such asreduced friction on dry hair. Such mixtures have a viscosity ofpreferably from about 1,000 mPa·s to about 100,000 mPa·s, morepreferably from about 5,000 mPa·s to about 50,000 mPa·s.

Other suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include thosehaving alkylamino substitutions as pendant groups of a siliconebackbone. Highly preferred are those known as “amodimethicone”.Commercially available amodimethicones useful herein include, forexample, BY16-872 available from Dow Corning.

The silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the presentcomposition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made mymechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsionpolymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected fromanionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, andmixtures thereof.

Additional Components

The composition of the present invention may include other additionalcomponents, which may be selected by the artisan according to thedesired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable forrendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptableor to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such other additionalcomponents generally are used individually at levels of from about0.001% to about 10%, preferably up to about 5% by weight of thecomposition.

A wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into thepresent compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such ashydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel,vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenolavailable from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche,hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients;preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben andimidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodiumcitrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodiumcarbonate; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes;perfumes; and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediaminetetra-acetate; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agentssuch as benzophenones; and antidandruff agents such as zinc pyrithione.

Low Melting Point Oil

Low melting point oils useful herein are those having a melting point ofless than 25° C. The low melting point oil useful herein is selectedfrom the group consisting of: hydrocarbon having from 10 to about 40carbon atoms; unsaturated fatty alcohols having from about 10 to about30 carbon atoms such as oleyl alcohol; unsaturated fatty acids havingfrom about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms; fatty acid derivatives; fattyalcohol derivatives; ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oilsincluding pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, trimethylol ester oils,citrate ester oils, and glyceryl ester oils; poly α-olefin oils such aspolydecenes; and mixtures thereof.

Product Forms

The conditioning compositions of the present invention can be in theform of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be formulatedin a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams,gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays. The conditioning composition of thepresent invention is especially suitable for rinse-off hair conditioner.

Method of Use

The conditioning composition of the present invention is preferably usedfor a method of conditioning hair, the method comprising followingsteps:

-   (i) after shampooing hair, applying to the hair an effective amount    of the conditioning composition for conditioning the hair; and-   (ii) then rinsing the hair.

Effective amount herein is, for example, from about 0.1 ml to about 2 mlper 10 g of hair, preferably from about 0.2 ml to about 1.5 ml per 10 gof hair.

The conditioning composition of the present invention provides improvedconditioning benefits, especially improved wet conditioning benefitsafter rinsing and improved dry conditioning, while maintaining wetconditioning benefit before rinsing. The conditioning composition of thepresent invention may also provide improved product appearance toconsumer. Thus, a reduced dosage of the conditioning composition of thepresent invention may provide the same level of conditioning benefits asthose of a full dosage of conventional conditioner compositions. Suchreduced dosage herein is, for example, from about 0.3 ml to about 0.7 mlper 10 g of hair.

Method of Manufacturing

The present invention is also directed to a method of manufacturing ahair conditioning composition,

-   wherein the composition comprises a cationic surfactant, a high    melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier;-   wherein a total amount of the cationic surfactant and the high    melting point fatty compound is from about 7.0% to about 15% by    weight of the composition;-   wherein the method comprises the steps:-   (1) preparing a premix (hereinafter, can be referred to as oil    phase) comprising the cationic surfactants and the high melting    point fatty compounds, wherein the temperature of the premix is    higher than a melting point of the high melting point fatty    compounds; and-   (2) preparing an aqueous carrier (hereinafter, can be referred to as    aqueous phase), wherein the temperature of the aqueous carrier is    below the melting point of the high melting point fatty compounds;    and-   (3) mixing the premix with the aqueous carrier and forming gel    matrix.

Preferably, the method further comprises the step of adding additionalingredients such as silicone compounds, perfumes, preservatives, ifincluded, to the gel matrix.

Preferably, the premix has a temperature of from about 25° C., morepreferably from about 40° C., still more preferably from about 50° C.,even more preferably from about 55° C., further preferably from about65° C., and to about 150° C., more preferably to about 95° C., stillmore preferably to about 90° C., even more preferably to about 85° C.,when mixing it with the aqueous carrier.

Preferably, the aqueous carrier has a temperature of from about 10° C.,more preferably from about 15° C., still more preferably from about 20°C., and to about 65° C., more preferably to about 55° C., still morepreferably to about 52° C., when mixing it with the premix. Preferably,the temperature of the aqueous carrier, when mixing it with the premix,is at least about 5° C. lower than, more preferably at least about 10°C. lower than the temperature of the premix. Preferably, the temperatureof the aqueous carrier, when mixing it with the premix, is from about 2°C. to about 60° C. lower than, more preferably from about 2° C. to about40° C. lower than, still more preferably from about 2° C. to about 30°C. lower than the melting point of the high melting point fattycompounds.

Preferably, the premix and the aqueous carrier are mixed by using a highshear homogenizer. Such high shear homogenizers useful herein include,for example: Sonolator® available from Sonic Corporation, Manton Gaulintype homogenizer available from the APV Manton Corporation, theMicrofluidizer available from Microfluidics Corporation, Becomix®available from A. Berents Gmbh&Co.

Preferably, the total amount of the cationic surfactant and the highmelting point fatty compound is from about 7.0%, preferably from about7.5%, more preferably from about 8.0% by weight of the composition, inview of providing the benefits of the present invention, and to about15%, preferably to about 14%, more preferably to about 13%, still morepreferably to about 10% by weight of the composition, in view ofspreadability and product appearance.

Preferably, the mixing step (3) comprises the following detailed steps:(3-1) feeding either of the oil phase or the aqueous phase into a highshear field having an energy density of about 1.0×10² J/m³ or more;(3-2) feeding the other phase directly to the field; and (3-3) formingan emulsion. Preferably, the method further requires at least one of thefollowing: the mixing step (3) is conducted by using a homogenizerhaving a rotating member; the surfactant is a mono-alkyl cationicsurfactant and the composition is substantially free of di-alkylcationic surfactants; and the surfactant is a cationic surfactant andthe oil phase contains from 0 to about 50% of the aqueous carrier byweight of the oil phase, preferably the oil phase is substantially freeof water.

EXAMPLES

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodimentswithin the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solelyfor the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed aslimitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof arepossible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.Where applicable, ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA name,or otherwise defined below.

Compositions (wt %)

Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. i Ex. ii Ex. iii Behenyltrimethyl 2.3 2.8 3.4 — 2.8 2.8 1.8 ammonium chloride Behenyl trimethyl— — — 2.8 — — — ammonium methyl sulfate Cetyl alcohol 1.5 1.9 2.2 1.91.9 1.9 1.2 Stearyl alcohol 3.7 4.7 5.5 4.6 4.7 4.7 2.9 Aminosilicone *11.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Isopropanol — 0.6 — 0.6 — — — Dipropyleneglycol — — 0.7 — — — — Cetyl hydroxyethyl — — — — 0.5 — — cellulose *2Disodium EDTA 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 Preservatives 0.4 0.40.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Perfume 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Panthenol0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Panthenyl ethyl 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.030.03 0.03 0.03 ether Deionized Water q.s. to 100% Definitions ofComponents *1 Aminosilicone: Available from GE having a viscosity 10,000mPa · s, and having following formula (I):(R₁)_(a)G_(3−a)—Si—(—OSiG₂)_(n)—(—OSiG_(b)(R₁)_(2−b))_(m)—O—SiG_(3−a)(R₁)_(a)(I) wherein G is methyl; a is an integer of 1; b is 0, 1 or 2,preferably 1; n is a number from 400 to about 600; m is an integer of 0;R₁ is a monovalent radical conforming to the general formula CqH_(2q)L,wherein q is an integer of 3 and L is —NH₂ *2 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose: Polysurf available from Hurcules Inc.

Method of Preparation

The conditioning compositions of “Ex. 1” through “Ex. 4” and thecomposition of “Ex. iii” are suitably made as follows:

-   Cationic surfactants and high melting point fatty compounds are    mixed and heated to from about 65° C. to about 90° C. to form a    premix. Separately, water is prepared at from about 25° C. to about    52° C. In Becomix® direct injection rotor-stator homogenizer, the    premix is injected to a high shear field having an energy density of    from 1.0×10⁴ J/m³ to 1.0×10⁷ J/m³ where the water is already    present. A gel matrix is formed. If included, silicone compounds,    perfumes, preservatives are added to the gel matrix with agitation.    Then the composition is cooled down to room temperature.

The conditioning compositions of “Ex. i” and “Ex. ii” as shown above canbe prepared by any conventional method well known in the art. They aresuitably made as follows: If included, polymers are added to water withagitation. Cationic surfactants and high melting point fatty compoundsare added to water with agitation, and heated to about 80° C. Themixture is cooled down to about 55° C. and gel matrix is formed. Ifincluded, silicone compounds, perfumes, preservatives are added to thegel matrix with agitation. Then the mixture is cooled down to roomtemperature.

Properties and Conditioning Benefits

With respect to the above compositions of Ex. 1-4 and Ex. i-iii, theyield stress and the conversion rate are measured by the methodsdescribed above. For some of the compositions, d-spacing is alsomeasured by the method described above. Such properties of thecompositions are shown in below Table 1.

With respect to the above compositions of Ex. 1-4 and Ex. i-iii,conditioning benefits are evaluated by the following methods. Results ofthe evaluation are also shown in below Table 1.

Wet Conditioning Before Rinsing

Wet conditioning before rinsing is evaluated by hair friction forcemeasured by an instrument named Texture Analyzer (TA XT Plus, TextureTechnologies, Scarsdale, N.Y., USA). 1 g of the composition is appliedto 10 g of hair sample. After spreading the composition on the hairsample and before rinsing it, friction force (g) between the hair sampleand a polyurethane pad is measured by the above instrument.

A: Above 5% (excluding 5%) to 10% reduction of Friction force, comparedto Control

B: Up to 5% (including 5%) reduction of Friction force, compared toControl

C: Control or Equal to Control

D: Increased Friction force, compared to Control

Wet Conditioning after Rinsing

Wet conditioning after rinsing is evaluated by hair friction forcemeasured by an instrument named Texture Analyzer (TA XT Plus, TextureTechnologies, Scarsdale, N.Y., USA). 1 g of the composition is appliedto 10 g of hair sample. After spreading the composition on the hairsample, rinsing it with warm water for 30 seconds. Then, friction force(g) between the hair sample and a polyurethane pad is measured by theabove instrument.

A: Above 5% (excluding 5%) to 10% reduction of Friction force, comparedto Control

B: Up to 5% (including 5%) reduction of Friction force, compared toControl

C: Control or Equal to Control

D: Increased Friction force, compared to Control

Dry Conditioning

Dry conditioning performance is evaluated by hair friction forcemeasured by an instrument named Instron Tester (Instron 5542, Instron,Inc,; Canton, Mass., USA). 2 g of the composition is applied to 20 g ofhair sample. After spreading the composition on the hair sample, rinsingit with warm water for 30 seconds, and the hair sample is left to dryover night. The friction force (g) between the hair surface and aurethane pad along the hair is measured.

A: Above 5% (excluding 5%) to 10% reduction of Friction force, comparedto Control

B: Up to 5% (including 5%) reduction of Friction force, compared toControl

C: Control or Equal to Control

D: Increased Friction force, compared to Control

Product Appearance

The product appearance is evaluated by 6 panelists, when dispensing 0.4ml of a conditioner product from a package.

-   -   A: From 3 to 6 panelists answered that the product had a thick        product appearance and perceived positive impression from its        appearance.    -   B: From 1 to 2 panelists answered that the product has a thick        product appearance and perceived positive impression from its        appearance.    -   C: Control

TABLE 1 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. i Ex. ii Ex. iii Yield point 37 4752 50 >33 25 16 Conversion rate of 100 100 100 100 <90 55 100 Highmelting point fatty compounds to Gel matrix D-spacing >50 >50 — — —29 >50 Wet conditioning A A A A D C B before rinsing Wet conditioning AA A A D C C after rinsing Dry conditioning B A A B D C C Productappearance A A B — — C —

The embodiments disclosed and represented by the previous “Ex. 1”through “Ex. 4” are hair conditioning compositions of the presentinvention which are particularly useful for rinse-off use. Suchembodiments have many advantages. For example, they provide improvedconditioning benefits, especially improved wet conditioning benefitsafter rinsing and improved dry conditioning, while maintaining wetconditioning benefit before rinsing.

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood asbeing strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead,unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean boththe recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding thatvalue. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean“about 40 mm.

Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or relatedpatent or application, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in itsentirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation ofany document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect toany invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in anycombination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests ordiscloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning ordefinition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning ordefinition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, themeaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shallgovern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have beenillustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in theart that various other changes and modifications can be made withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereforeintended to cover in the appended claims all such changes andmodifications that are within the scope of this invention.

1. A method of manufacturing a hair conditioning composition, whereinthe composition comprises a cationic surfactant, a high melting pointfatty compound having a melting point of about 25° C. or higher, and anaqueous carrier; wherein a total amount of the cationic surfactant andthe high melting point fatty compound is from about 7.0% to about 15% byweight of the composition; wherein the method comprises the steps: (1)preparing a premix (oil phase) comprising the cationic surfactants andthe high melting point fatty compounds, wherein the temperature of thepremix is higher than a melting point of the high melting point fattycompounds; and (2) preparing an aqueous carrier (aqueous phase), whereinthe temperature of the aqueous carrier is below the melting point of thehigh melting point fatty compounds; and (3) mixing the premix with theaqueous carrier and forming gel matrix; wherein the mixing step (3)comprises the steps: (3-1) feeding either of the oil phase or theaqueous phase into a high shear field having an energy density of about1.0×10² J/m³ or more; (3-2) feeding the other phase directly to thefield; and (3-3) forming an emulsion.
 2. The method of manufacturing ofclaim 1, wherein the mixing step (3) is conducted by using a homogenizerhaving a rotating member.
 3. The method of manufacturing of claim 1,wherein the surfactant is a mono-alkyl cationic surfactant and thecomposition is substantially free of di-alkyl cationic surfactants. 4.The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the surfactant is acationic surfactant and the oil phase contains from about 0 to about 50%of the aqueous carrier by weight of the oil phase.
 5. The method ofmanufacturing of claim 4, wherein the oil phase is substantially free ofwater.
 6. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the premix hasa temperature of from about 25° C. to about 150° C.; when mixing it withthe aqueous carrier.
 7. The method of manufacturing of claim 6, whereinthe premix has a temperature of from about 65° C. to about 85° C.; whenmixing it with the aqueous carrier.
 8. The method of manufacturing ofclaim 1, wherein the aqueous carrier has a temperature of from about 10°C. to about 65° C.; when mixing it with the premix.
 9. The method ofmanufacturing of claim 8, wherein the aqueous carrier has a temperatureof from about 20° C. to about 52° C.; when mixing it with the premix.10. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the temperature ofthe aqueous phase, when mixing it with the premix is at least about 5°C. lower than the temperature of the premix.
 11. The method ofmanufacturing of claim 1, wherein the temperature of the aqueouscarrier, when mixing it with the premix, is from about 2° C. to about60° C. lower than the melting point of the high melting point fattycompounds.
 12. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the totalamount of the cationic surfactant and the high melting point fattycompound is from about 7.5% to about 15% by weight of the composition.13. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the high shear fieldhas an energy density of from about 1.0×10⁴ J/m³ to about 1.0×10⁷ J/m³.14. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the premix and theaqueous carrier are mixed by a high shear homogenizer.
 15. The method ofmanufacturing of claim 1, wherein the high melting point fatty compoundhas a melting point of from about 40° C. up to about 90° C.
 16. Themethod of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the cationic surfactant is asalt of a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium and an anion, wherein theanion is selected from the group consisting of halides, C1-C4 alkylsulfate, and mixtures thereof.
 17. The method of manufacturing of claim1, wherein cationic surfactant is a salt of a mono-long alkylquaternized ammonium and an anion has the formula (I):

wherein one of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ is selected from an aliphatic groupof from 16 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene,alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are independentlyselected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 8 carbon atoms or anaromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl oralkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X⁻ is asalt-forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides, C1-C4alkyl sulfates and mixtures thereof.
 18. The method of manufacturing ofclaim 1, wherein the high melting point fatty compound is selected fromthe group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcoholsderivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
 19. Themethod of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein the aqueous carrier includeswater and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydricalcohols.
 20. The method of manufacturing of claim 1, wherein thecomposition includes a silicone compound and/or a low melting point oil.